I grew up exploring Sri Lanka with my father, Nihal Fernando – a photographer, environmentalist and passionate advocate for this island’s wilderness, heritage, and people.
Travelling with him was never a mere journey; it was an immersion in discovery. Sitting by a campfire as an owl crossed the moonlit sky, stumbling upon a hidden sculpture deep in the jungle, listening to villagers share their stories – each experience revealed something new and precious. These moments sparked a lifelong love for my country and ultimately inspired the creation of Back of Beyond – not simply as a place to stay, but as a way of offering meaningful experiences rooted in respect for Sri Lanka and its people and a deep sense of commitment towards this country.
In my childhood, we stayed in circuit bungalows and simple campsites where cooks, trackers, and villagers welcomed us with warmth and generosity. Their hospitality made us feel both treasured and at home. Back in Colombo, books were pulled out from the shelves, the one-inch-to-a-mile maps spread out, and the next journey was chartered. There were also visits to our coconut estate where my father planted an orchard under coconut. His publications, Handbook for the Ceylon Traveller and Handbook for the Ceylon Farmer were our constant companions.
It was this passion that prompted me after pursuing higher studies in Chemistry, Biology, Bio-Chemistry and Agriculture in the USA, to return to my island home. My first job was environment-related, with a private corporate company specialising in water and wastewater purification and management. Yet, the memories of those days and nights in the open spaces had become part of me and with becoming a parent, I wanted my twin daughters to discover and value this country the way I did.
My dream took shape when I moved out of the corporate sector and started searching for beautiful remote properties and building small retreats - places for family, friends, and like-minded travellers to share. We called our company “Back of Beyond”, a name drawn from the title of a chapter in Handbook for the Ceylon Traveller about routes off the beaten tracks, hidden places and moody panoramas.
Commencing operations in 2007, the Sri Lankan-owned and family-operated Back of Beyond umbrella now spreads from the ancient capital of Anuradhapura in the north central region of the island to the southern seas of Kahadamodera. At present we have four highly personalised, wilderness retreats and manage two others as well.
Each location has its own character and we built our hide-aways to reflect and enhance the landscape and natural elements of each site. Our staff are hand-picked, based not only on skill but also on personality – on our memories of friendly, obliging and knowledgeable guides, cooks and helpers that made my childhood holidays special.
Our vision is to have Back of Beyond retreats in many different natural and historical settings, remembering always, that wildlife were the original inhabitants of our forests and waterways and that we are their guests, as well as striving to strike that delicate balance between development and sustainability.
Back of Beyond is our way of sharing the wonder of Sri Lanka – its wild places, its people, and its stories – with those who come seeking more than just a holiday.
“Touch gently” is our mantra. We believe that our brand of travel tourism safeguards the land that otherwise might be used in more harmful ways. We make every effort to integrate with the environment, protect its natural elements and nurture land. Our touch is gentle, it is also sensitive and far-reaching, beneficial not only to the land and its original wild denizens, but also to the community. We work closely with the people of this country – the farmers, the villagers, the artisans and the rural youth, to harness their inborn skills and provide them with meaningful opportunities enabling them to live in their homesteads without migrating.
Our approach is restorative, regenerative and sustainable. We hope our guests too would touch gently and carry this spirit forward on their own journeys.
When we purchase a land, we spend more than a year simply observing it through the changing seasons—the monsoons and the droughts, the winds, the sunrise and sunset, the vegetation, the birds and animals. Only then do we build, shaping our spaces to follow the natural flow of the land and minimising our impact on the environment.
You get a real feel of the landscape. We have also found that children love the freedom to see and enjoy nature in its authentic form and we hope we are inspiring budding conservationists.
A large portion of each property is left untouched or rejuvenated into wild habitat. We have found that these natural refuges are far more critical than we imagined, as wildlife struggles to find safe spaces in a shrinking natural world.
Our land has become a safe haven for biodiversity, teeming with life from insects to birds and larger animals— much more abundant than when we first arrived.
We practice rainwater collection and have created mini lakes for storing excess rainwater.
In the dry season, our stored water becomes a life-giving source for wildlife as well.
We build with minimal clearing, keeping natural vegetation and contours intact, locating and designing structures that lend themselves naturally to construction.
Properties that are true to nature, rather than “landscaped gardens”.
The major portion of the land is left untouched with a ratio of less than one room per acre.
We preserve the environment and minimise human impact and maximize the diversity within our properties.
We use both modern methods of eco-friendly construction, as well as revive the traditional building practices such as rammed earth, and material such as illuk and talipot and coconut thatch and bamboo rafters, instead of asbestos, tiles and timber.
Structures that blend with land with low carbon footprint.
We work with rural craftsmen and builders, incorporating traditional methods of building that harmonise with the environment and have learnt to appreciate their special styles of working.
Helping to preserve skills that are being lost with urbanisation of the villages.
All of our properties rely on renewable sources with solar power most widely used. At Kahandamodara, our solar installation even exports electricity back to the grid. At Dehigaha Ela, we partially operate on solar power, while wood from our land is used for dendro cooking.
Cleaner energy use and reduced pressure on the national grid.
Open space house plans with the use of natural light and ventilation minimising electricity consumption. Air-conditioning is avoided in most properties by choice.
Accommodation structures that enable you to be closer to the natural cycles of day and night and nature.
We have chosen our team carefully, giving equal importance to individual personalities and specialised knowledge. All part time help is sourced from the villages.
A warm, authentic experience with people who care deeply about their work and the environment.
Our team reflects the spirit of friendliness and inborn hospitality of the Sri Lankan villages they call home.
An authentic experience that goes beyond service.
We believe in collective responsibility and in enjoying the work we do. This spirit underlies our commitment to this land and its people—and inspires us to share what brings us contentment with you, our guests.
At Back of Beyond, we believe that meaningful travel goes hand in hand with supporting the communities that surround us. From the earliest days of our journey, we have worked closely with the people of nearby villages—valuing their skills, traditions and their in-depth knowledge of the area.
From the initial construction stage to daily operations, the local community has always been part of our story. Most of the building work has been carried out by community members who bring with them a deep knowledge of the land and local craftsmanship. Many of those who began with us then continue as suppliers of fruit, vegetables, curd, honey, and more. Others return to help with maintenance, and many of our team members today come from the surrounding villages.
We have also forged links with community members to provide guests with more immersive experiences, as for example, village breakfasts with a boatman and his family, a meal in a farmer’s home, etc. These experiences not only create lasting memories for our guests but also provide direct benefits to village households.
We do not run our own tours and safaris. Instead we out-source to the locals - jeep drivers, guides and boat operators, etc., ensuring that tourism income flows directly to the community. We also believe in being fair by our service providers and team members and ensure that they receive appropriate remuneration for services rendered. We do not seek cheap bargains.
Being part of the village community, we support their religious and community activities, often helping out the local temple and school when special needs arise. Guests are welcome to join too - volunteering with the local schools in teaching art, English etc. Feel free to discuss any particular interest, hobby or skill you have with our team members so that we can explore possibilities with the community.
We choose only to work with service providers who share our ethical values. We do not condone elephant rides, which are very popular in the Sigiriya and Habarana areas. These rides, often involving cruelty and neglect, are in stark contrast to the respect these magnificent animals deserve.
Many of our lodges were established in forest land thereby ensuring that these primary and secondary forests are protected with a large percentage of our profits being channelled into purchasing adjoining forestlands and protecting them. Protecting existing forests is far more effective in terms of conservation than new plantations. However, on our property on the south coast, we have regreened denuded land with indigenous and endemic trees, medicinal plants, flowering trees and shrubs and butterfly friendly species.
Planting of floral species that are host to bees and butterflies is important to encourage pollination. These gardens would also have a positive effect on all agricultural property in the area, as pollination is vital for crop production. Two large butterfly gardens flourish in Kahandamodera and Dehigaha ela providing sustenance to both the larval and adult stages of butterflies. A 200 metre strip of land opposite our Pidurangala lodge, once a bare, dry patch after forest clearing, is now being transformed into a butterfly and ayurveda garden. These gardens not only add beauty but also nurture pollinating insects and natural predators that are threatened from the use of pesticides.
We support broader environmental and community projects such as creating a butterfly belt in Colombo city, training of national park guides, clearing of invasive species in National Parks, educational programs for school children, etc.
My father, Nihal Fernando wrote in his book “A Personal Odyssey” (1997) : “I have tried to give something back for what I have received – the pleasure of being born in this Eden, once upon a time.”
We, at Back of Beyond, also try to give something back for what we have received, while at the same time, we also share the pleasure of being born in this Eden with you.
